There's a place in Seoul where time flows differently. Among skyscrapers and neon signs hides Bukchon Hanok Village—a labyrinth of narrow streets with traditional Korean houses over 600 years old. When I first wandered here, winding through steep alleys, my breath caught: around another turn appeared a row of tile roofs against a mountain ridge—and for a moment I felt transported to the Joseon Dynasty.

Village History

"Bukchon" means "northern village"—the district lies north of Cheonggyecheon Stream, which once divided Seoul into rich and poor quarters. Bukchon was elite: nobles, high offic...