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If I had to choose only one palace in Seoul, I would choose Changdeokgung without hesitation. Not because it is the largest or oldest - there are bigger and older palaces. But Changdeokgung possesses something elusive, a special harmony that makes you return again and again. UNESCO included it on the World Heritage List for good reason, noting an outstanding example of Far Eastern palace architecture and garden design.
Palace History: The Secondary Residence That Became Primary
Changdeokgung, Palace of Prospering Virtue, was built in 1405 as a secondary royal residence. The main palace then was Gyeongbokgung, while Changdeokgung served for rest and seclusion. But history had other plans.
In 1592, the Japanese invasion destroyed both palaces. Gyeongbokgung lay in ruins for nearly 300 years, but Changdeokgung was restored by 1610 and from then on became the main royal residence. Here kings of the Joseon dynasty lived, ruled, and died for over 250 years.
The last Korean king, Sunjong, lived at Changdeokgung until 1926. After his death, the palace became a museum, but members of the royal family continued living here. The last princess, Yi Bangja, died at the palace in 1989. So Changdeokgung is not an ancient ruin but a place of living memory.
Architecture: Harmony with Nature
What distinguishes Changdeokgung from other Korean palaces? It was built incorrectly by Confucian standards. In tradition, palaces were strictly aligned north-south, symmetrically. But Changdeokgung is located on a hillside, and the architects decided to follow the terrain rather than fight it.
Buildings are placed asymmetrically, paths wind between natural boulders, walls curve around trees that grew here before construction. This principle is called pungsu (the Korean variant of feng shui) - living in harmony with nature.
The Secret Garden (Huwon): The Palace Jewel
The northern part of the palace complex is occupied by a huge garden of 32 hectares. It is called the Secret Garden because it was closed to outsiders. Only the royal family could walk its paths. The garden was created over 300 years - each king added something while maintaining minimal intervention in nature.
The most famous spot is a square pond with a round island in the middle. The square symbolizes earth, the circle heaven. On the island stands an elegant pavilion with a two-tiered roof.
Practical Tips
Important: The Secret Garden is accessible only by guided tour! Tours are conducted several times daily in Korean, English, Japanese, and Chinese. Groups are limited (50-100 people); book tickets in advance online. The tour lasts about 90 minutes.
The palace is open 9:00-18:00 (winter until 17:30), closed Monday. Entry is free for those wearing traditional Korean hanbok costume. Rental shops are throughout the district, prices start from 15,000 won.
Each season is beautiful: spring with cherry blossoms, summer with lush greenery, autumn with golden foliage (best time!), winter with snow on tiled roofs. The Secret Garden is especially beautiful in autumn when maples and ginkgos turn red and yellow.